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Archive for the ‘Paparazzi Ethnography’ Category


Dancing.

Biliana Stremska — Berkeley artist, painter, architect, folk-dancer. We attended the opening of the Mythos Gallery‘s showing of her work along with other artists of the west coast. In addition to Biliana’s watercolors, which include energy themes, such as solar panels on homes in Sofia, Bulgaria — Portland’s Dane Wilson had several pieces concerning the light emitted from street lamps.

Capturing my attention was the inclusion of public lighting and renewables as suitable subjects, not only in the paintings, but also in the titles of the works themselves. One piece of Biliana is titled House with Solar Panels, while Dane had a few paintings with lamps, one titled Night Light.

Berkeley local Horst Bansner and Dane, darn near unnerved me with their chatter. Crammed into that little gallery, they badgered me on what I do (pipes, energy, paparazzi) and how could it possibly be anthropology, given that anthropologists focus on non-literate cultures, thought to be pre-modern.

It is a good question that soon had me admitting that I am a fall-guy for spaces of non-literacy. The fleeting phenomena rarely speaks with text.


In social spaces of interaction — in a language captured through face-to-face encounters — are where I find the verbatims and accents of emotional attachment.

I arrived ill-equipped. All I had was an I-Phone camera with a dying battery.

But I squeezed in a photo of what food the gallery curator put on display, what kinds of utensils, napkins, glasses, beverages, and whatnots.




A reading of Norbert Elias‘ History of Manners, suggests our relationship to the display of food is a dominant in how we define our sense of delicacy. Elias points out that table utensils, beginning in court society of 16th century, begin to shrink, actually get smaller, especially with the introduction of the fork. Beasts, once displayed on tables, disappear — even the carving of meat vanishes.





No Fork! and Eating with a Knife!

Unprepared Meat brought to the Table

Good visual examples of Elias’ narrative may be seen in the swashbuckling movies of Errol Flynn, especially The Adventures of Robin Hood, which I found on the web and cut and pasted here.

Elias points to a change over the past several hundred years from an instinct for interpersonal violence to an instinct for self-restraint. Interpersonal violence was part of a world in which there was interpersonal everything. In medieval times, body movements were unnoticeably shared. Masters, servants, children, all slept in one room. People ate with their hands out of the one-shared bowl, drank out of one shared glass, defecated in their commons.

“Back Then” — Interpersonal Violence was entirely Pleasurable

Bringing swords to dinner and fighting at the table is no longer acceptable

Thus, a shift from medieval society, where interpersonal violence is pleasurable—vendettas, feuds, revenge, duels — to modern society where violence is pathological — enables populations to sleep soundly as government drops bombs on civilian populations elsewhere.

In medieval court society, there arose an idea about court and specifically, courtesy, which drew attention to the idea of bodily shame and delicacy.

The very idea of Courtesy arrives at Court Society

The very Idea of courtly shame led to material practices that today we call manners. Over the centuries, increasing forms of self-control and restraint — of compulsions arising directly from threat of weapons and physical force gradually diminish while at the same time, giving rise to other forms of dependency — a police force—leading to affects in the form of self control.


Modern Courtesy requires Interpersonal Delicacy and Manners.

Politeness requires the Bomb

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Hotel Moscow

I read a fabulously sentimental article in The New York Times about celebrated pianist, Harvey Van Cliburn’s return to Moscow as Honorary Juror to the International Tchaikovsky Competition, which he won in 1958 during the Cold War, at a time when then Premier of the Soviet Union, Nikita Khrushchev, was exploring the idea of peaceful coexistence with the United States. The article describes the outpouring of love still felt for Van Cliburn by Russians. Sitting in a coffee shop, reading the article, rubbing my eyes now filled with emotion, I suddenly had a Eureka Moment and breathed aloud, “Wait a spot – I know that place!”

Hotel Moscow

Right there, in that exact location, where Van Cliburn is posing for international photographers — I happened to have taken a photo of Alexandra Karamanova, my fellow photographist and travelry specialist on the first ever Paparazzi Ethnographic Tour last year of Russia — Moscow.

The View

Admittedly, Alex is no Van Cliburn. What I mean is that I do not think, in fact, that she even plays the piano. Nevertheless, the opportunity allows us to think about and reflect upon for a moment, just what Van Cliburn actually saw when standing on that parapet, having his photo taken by the international press. Just what were the material surroundings determining his consciousness as he smiled for the camera?

Let us take a tour!

First of all, Van Cliburn had to get up to the roof-top, and at 76 years old, he probably did not take the stairs. That means, he took the elevator. In which case, if he does not suffer from vertigo, he would have noticed the atrium he was passing through, and the cleanliness of the windows.

The Elevator Scene

He may have been accompanied by a few select paparazzi taking photos of his reaction to this Moscow hotspot, in the way Alex has staged this photo, in anticipation of such a moment, when we would notice someone in the news having their photo taken in this building.

Van Cliburn probably went up there for lunch, choosing a seat near where the photo was taken, and perusing through the menu in a nonchalant manner, just as Alex has done so here in this image — in a staged effort of anticipation about what future stars could be doing in this very location. Van Cliburn cuts a trim figure, so he probably doesn’t eat much. Probably, he has a sweet tooth, and ordered ice cream. It is actually quite warm in Moscow these days, so a little frozen confection soothes the nerves.

The Menu

Actually. Did I mention that this is the location of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, on Tverskaya Street 3-5, situated just 150 meters from Red Square, with “panoramic views from its rooftop across to the Kremlin, which is 400 meters away”?

In addition to international stars like Van Cliburn, the Ritz-Carlton is also a watering hole for observing the “Celebrity Lifestyles of the Carbon Rich and Not-So-Famous” (and, of course, their self-appointed paparazzi ethnographers!).

Well. Now you know the location. So you can do your own google search of images for the rest of the story. But I should mention, in final note, that from this particular location, in addition to the Kremlin, you can spot the Headquarters of various oil and gas companies in Moscow, including the Trade Tower in which we visited then President Bengt Hansen of Statoil, Moscow.

Statoil Boardroom, Moscow




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Waltzing toward the airport departure gate watching advertisements posted on the wall creates the impression of a portrait gallery.

























After Security












Airport 6AM: I just cleared the morning brine from around my eyes, so anyone noticing me in the past hour probably thinks I have been crying. But who leaves such a beautiful place like Iceland? I am not surprised the whole airport is not in tears.


Parting shots of Reykjavik

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→ Reykjavik

A Land of Pools and Pipes




6/29: Last Day in Iceland.

Doors open when the weather is warm in Reykjavik.




Doors left open and slightly ajar. Maybe it means something.






Reykjàvians are loungers. That is all there is to it. When the weather is warm, they sit around on benches, listen to music or read the news tattlers over soda. Perhaps I am dramatic, and difficult to follow. But there are many sofas around town.



Sofas in art houses and coffee shops



Sofas in restaurants












6/28: Reykjavik is a little more edgy than Akureyri. The night spots.

We spent the evening with a few Greenlanders who blew into town. I was happy to hear from them and suggested we visit a local dance bar near my flat.

In the heart of Reykjavik, it is, on the average, a rather quiet part of town. But there is in the capital of Iceland, a very different approach to living it up, so to speak. Of course, sitting in a corner having a quiet conversation, things seemed to be moving toward a boil, as the 1AM deadline on a Tuesday evening came to the fore.

Reykjavik night-life

Boys and Girls

Adults

“Kicking in chairs and knocking down tables in a restaurant….”

Earlier in the day, when there was more sunlight, we booked a few tickets on the tourist travel bus around Iceland’s Golden Circle.

Luckily, ICASS participant, Angela Byrne, PhD and Government of Ireland Postdoctoral Mobility Fellow, Department of History at NUI Maynooth as well as the Institute for the History and Philosophy of Science and Technology, University of Toronto — the genius that she is — gave me a tour of Ireland’s 18th to 19th centuries’ science and antiquarian studies of the North while on the bus. Quite frankly, without her, I would have been bored to tears looking at all that grassland without some accompanying intellectual chatter.

Angela spoke volumes about Ireland’s intellectual history — the development and routing of a Catholic Monastic literati, the rise and final rousing of an Anglican Irish, the Grand Tour diaries and diaspora of Ireland’s Gentry into the Prussian, Central European and Russian Armies based upon a noble registry. W-o-w! I will need to re-write my own interest in the intellectual professionals with some of her own perspectives.

Discovery on the bus was not the only thing that occurred during the trip.

We found an image of the Arctic without any ice in Greenland or the Arctic. And that is bad news. I do not know what year the publishers are referring to, but we will file this image in our discussion of In-Flight Warming.



Yes, we visited a power plant on the way. The entirety of Iceland seems to be one big Thermo-Gaia Reactor, bringing to mind my Islands of Inland Empire. We will just table these two ideas. Let us move on.




We found what I call the Heideggerian handle. In a different posting, I refer to the work of Martin Heidegger, on the topic of the ontological which takes the essence of the human form.









I was going crazy over these two handles when a few ICASS stragglers caught up.

Heidegger’s Handles versus the Concrete

Nuccio Mazzullo and Hannah Strauss

Dr. Nuccio Mazzullo of Leibniz Institute for Regional Geography and Hannah Strauss of the Thule Institute spotted us right away.

I explained that Heidegger concerns himself with the use and imprint of the human hand on things– e.g., in The Origin of the Work of Art, and that years ago, I came across a wooden picket fence, hewn roughly so that it would be easy enough to get a splinter.

But there, in the very space where you might think to grasp the fence to open the gate, the wood was well polished, patina-like as if it had been touched by the human hand for 20 years. Such investment, without consciousness, without deliberation, without a sense of virtue or demand, but simply the habit of human life struck me in a peculiar way. It appeared to me as a sense of accomplishment, fragile and ordered.

The Human Touch

Space of Neglect

And here, Nuccio said something brilliant. Listening to me, he stated, “yes, you can say that this is where Human Action comes into Focus”. That was the exact phrase I was looking for. Thank you Nuccio!










6/27: Swimming at the Blue Lagoon.

Passing pipes along the way.

Reykjavik in one fell swoop. That is what it felt like at any rate.

We blew down from Akureyri, starting about midnight. David Koester and Victoria Petrasheva, with me riding shot gun and gabbing the entire time about all my doings. Only Victoria heard in my voice a lullaby and not our driver, David, who managed to stay awake the entire time.

We went down a list of academic books we had read recently and suggested names for key note plenary speakers of the next ICASS. I mentioned to him ideas I had developed with my bare hands– all kinds of sense making, much of which is posted on this site.

Arriving at Brynja’s place, between David’s driving and my speaking, we were spent.

Bryna Des Vals is an Icelandic Professor who studied Russian years ago during a field year in Moscow. She is a long time friend of Victoria, the latter from Petropavlosk, and was gracious to open her home to two additional guests last evening, David and myself. I awoke inside what can only be described as a charming cottage, with an opened door to the outside, hearing the wind kick up a backyard of domestic plants gone wild.

Through-the-Looking glass was an apt description of my desire to take a coffee on the balcony.

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→ Akureyri

Seventh International Congress of Arctic Social Sciences (ICASS)

Have we mentioned what a wonderful time we’ve had at the ICASS 7, and in fact, that everyone has already headed home to their respective destinations? We have. We’re tuckered and cannot think of what more to say beyond acknowledging, once again our wonderful hosts, Joan Nymand Larsen and Jon Haukur Ingimundarson.


Or?

Is there still room to beat about the bush?

Former Lt. Governor of Alaska and current Chair of Arctic Research Commission, Fran Ulmer (R) standing beside economist, Lee Husky

Dr. Anna Kerttula de Echave, Academic to the stars and National Science Foundation, Program Officer for Office of Polar Programs

There is. We need to name drop  — that also in attendance was Former Lt. Governor of Alaska and current Chair of the Arctic Research Commission, Fran Ulmer. Fran has worked tirelessly for all things good in the Arctic (and Alaska!) and that she attended the ICASS 7 speaks volumes of her continued commitment.

And come to think of it, I benefitted from the discretion of Fran, when she and Governor Tony Knowles provided me with my first break as Paparazzi Ethnographer, while working as an energy lobbyist in their Washington, D.C. office some years ago. At that time, I was assistant to Anna Kerttula de Echave, then Associate Director in the Office of the Alaska Governor, appointed under Ulmer and Knowles. In our humble footnote manner, we would just like to wish both Fran and Anna all the best — as they continue to provide all of us with the great leadership they’ve been doing now for so long….


Pre-Epilogue Notes:
News Flash: We’re not done quite yet. First of all, we have to thank one special person, among the so many that we need to acknowledge, and for which we will be doing just that very activity here quite soon, but nevertheless, let us take a moment to acknowledge the masterful latte making of Hildur Fridriksdottir.

Voilà:

Hildur

Pouring Magic Potion

With a Smile

Several secret admirers of the StudioPolar Paparazzi Ethnographic Blog have since given up their identity.
Admittedly, it was difficult at first to wrangle from one person in particular, his namesake, and we were at a loss for how to provide an identity to the image. Then it occurred to us to ask the one question that no academic can resist from providing an appropriate response: “May we have your business card?” and in a moment all was revealed:

Mysterious reader of StudioPolar

John W. Farrell, PhD. and Executive Director of the US Arctic Research Commission. As you can imagine, we were flattered to have such a distinguished representative of our federal government following our blogging footsteps.

Okay, let’s go to the final plenary for the closing of the conference. Wow! We all had a great time here at ICASS, perhaps one of the best venues ever. So many good presentations, conversations, evenings, exchanges, and even a bit of intrigue to oil the moving parts and practices of all the fleeting phenomena of Akureyri’s mid-summer’s meeting.

Well, there you have it.

Final Plenary

Final statements

Leaders

The final plenary took place, Joan Nymand Larsen, IASSA President and ICASS VII co-convener said some wonderful words to bring to an end a fabulous week.



Gail Fondahl going for the Gold!


UNIVERSITY OF NORTHERN BRITISH COLUMBIA IS THE WINNER!!! CONGRATULATIONS GAIL FONDAHL!!! The new IASSA President and ICASS VIII Convener!! YAY!! — We’ll all be headed to Northern British Columbia in a couple years for the next ICASS conference — Nelson Graburn is such a drama queen. He came out with the microphone and gave us the final vote tally announcing “78 votes to 67 votes” and then sat there not saying who the winner was for a few seconds, all of us waiting on bated breath, and then he announced it. I just congratulated Gail personally, she’ll do a fabulous job.





6/26Last Day 9AM. Listening to Nancy Wachowich talking about film, and image history in Canadian Arctic. Sounds great so far. Oh, excellent. Talking about how images, movies from the Arctic, getting inscribed into New York art galleries, and the competing story lines of Knud Rasmussen. The evidentiary status of images and stories in various arctic fronts, and bringing various readings to the table. And “ducking beneath” various accepted notions by which the local is undermined by reference to the global in film (e.g., technology of the camera).

How the historic past is intimately connected to, and moving far beyond the image in the frame. And in this, Nancy provides an ethnography of the script-making behind the indigenous film on Rasmussen’s diaries, and how the past was brought into being through a generative set of activities, referring to maps, charts, old photographs posted on walls, and elders referencing different images and an interplay of elaborate activities moving forward — a heightened reflexivity about what it might have been like to have experienced environmental emergence common only a generation earlier.

Historical imaginings in the film, left on the cutting room floor, etc. are all apart of the narrative imaginings.


6/25: We finally caught up with Amanda Foote from Wild Horses Consulting. A real Calgarian would be an understatement. We were on our way to the movies, to see an ethnographic film, and brushed by Amanda while she was carrying on a phone conversation with one youth member of the Canadian Aboriginal Bands which she assists in work development programs.

Amanda’s Eye Glasses

Glasses magnified

We arrived at that moment when she had her glasses off, taking a break from looking into the lens, and capturing a photo of her eye-glasses once before she had a chance to put them on again, deciding that their materiality best preserved the image of Amanda in her absence.

Ssshhh!

We just stepped into a movie screening.

I’m so lazy, and ask our readers to forgive me for not introducing the movie, but it’s so dark in here, I can’t flip through the program. And, oh, they just turned on the light, for a few moments, a technical problem, just for a few moments, not enough time to identify the film that we’re now so engrossed in.

Watching Movies

Movie Watching

But enough time in fact, to capture a quick image of our viewers. And who is that in the left hand bottom corner of the image, looking directly into the camera- but none other than the well spoken graduate student, Lindsey Terry of Educational Policy Studies, University of Alberta. Okay, I’ll have to get the names of the director and movies later. Lights out! Back to the film!

Tom Thorton

3PM — okay, well, while it doesn’t look like we go to any panels and hear any science, in fact we do. And just to provide evidence as such, I want to post this photo of Tom Thorton of Oxford University, working on corporate governing under the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act. So there. Okay, let’s go back to the gossip. The final vote tally was put through and the new ICASS Council is in. Well, I was a bit abashed actually, three of my favorites did not get elected! Huh. But all those who were, Gail Fondahl, Birger Poppel, Peter Schweitzer, Florian Stammler, Alona YefimenkoChris Southcott and two others. Welcome and Congratulations!

NOON TIME — Well, the votes are in. Jessica Shadian gave a great talk in support of Norway for the next ICASS conference, and Gail Fondhal was equally forceful in making her case for British Columbia. Chris Southcott gave a worthy performance.

Vote Counting Pow Wow among the Chiefs

Actually. Last night, right at the table that I was seated, Nelson Graburn was asked to count the votes, so important would be the out come, that everyone wanted the deliberate wizened wizardry of the Inuktitut Master — The pow wow took place when Dr. Joan Nymand Larsen, IASSA President and ICASS VII co-convener, and Dr. Jon Haukur Ingimundarson, ICASS VII Congress Convener huddled for a fleeting moment, captured of course, by the Paparazzi Ethnographic lens.

Update: OMG – Jessica only got 20% of the vote. Wow. Yukon and British Columbia are in a tie vote and we’ve had to vote once again.

Last Meal

Okay, now, we’re introducing the Nominees for IASSA Council 2011-2014. And those who want to be elected are heading up to the podium to give a blurb about who they are. David Koester is up there now, selling his pitch, and he sounds great, calm, secure, I hope he gets on the Council. Alexander King just gave us a promise that if he’s elected he will change the by-laws and put them up for a web vote. There’s someone up there now, and I can’t make out what they’re saying. Too bad. Andrey Petrov is now up, and made everyone laugh with a joke, so that should get him a few votes. Birger Poppel just got the gavel for speaking too long. Peter Schweitzer wants to stay because of institutional memory. Jessica Shadian is now up and she sounds great. Good for her.

Lasting Meal

Florian Stammler is up. Speaking confidently about why he wants another go as a Council member. Tatiana Vlasova is now speaking and talking about the internationalization of workers in (?) — I’m sitting in the back of the room, so I apologize, for this partial note-taking, I can’t hear what’s being said. But I should say that I just voted for Tatiana. She seemed like a very good egg. Okay, last person. Alona Yefimenko. It’s always tough to go last. But Alona sparkled up on stage and I’m sure she’ll get the vote out.



6/25No change.

Conferences.

But today there was a difference. We were invited by the city back to the Culture House. And this time, we came to celebrate by banquet the award of one of our own — of the most prestigious of sentimental moments, the ICASS life membership. Even for the most Midas of cynical touches, those for whom the holy with every moment becomes profane, we gasped.

It was Anna Kerttula.

We all knew Anna was the perfect person. Dr. Kerttula, Program Officer, National Science Foundation, Office of Polar Programs. But no one could anticipate that at this moment, Anna would have been selected. But lets back up a bit. And attempt to ride into an understanding of the evening without simply spelling things out, right away, so to speak.

There’s no longer a need to provide identification. That we’ve all become familiar with the setting is a truism. It’s late. It’s early. There’s no dawn to dusk, just lit and well lit, dusk and dawn.

Lasting things memorable place me in a heated discussion with Dr. Piers Vitebskey over serendipity. California versus England according to the good doctor. Of course, I applied my scorched earth rhetoric to the discussion. Everything during the evening was whether Jessica should have the next ICASS over Gail and Chris. For the record, I’ll be voting for ____ ____. Vitebskey attempted to point out that I had no appreciation of tradition. And this was precisely my appreciation. By tearing the sacred asunder, I always can prove there’s something I care for.

The contenders.

Purveyors.

The wine tasters.









The Servers









Banqueters









6/24Summer solstice in Akureyri. It’s a time when the sun never sets, and folks go out in search of leisure. Everything’s innocent of course, it’s just that all this innocence takes place from dusk till dawn.

Arctic Time Zones

The more we move through space in Akureyri, the more we become aware of a different time dimension, perhaps it has to do with the summer Arctic. But especially last evening, we could not shake a distinct sense that forms of time here were not corresponding to the those of the Western Cosmopolitan.

And this does not mean we had left the cosmopolitan world. It is just, that perhaps, we had entered an alternative space within the cosmopolitan form. How would I, as an anthropologist, distinguish this unique space, its particular form as represented in the objects that are part of Akureyri night scape? Since I love labels, perhaps it is best to begin with a title, call it Arctic Modern, or the Western Arctic Cosmopolitan for lack of better phrases.

The Architects

Icelandic Modern

And here I might say that there is a distinct Akureryi Night Scape that begins just past midnight. When Icelanders go down to various night bars or piano bars, and without even making a phone call, find each other wrestling with the midsummer’s light.

As a Photographist and International Traveler, it’s typically dumb luck that I can follow a path as friends and informants proceed in their quest to arrest the zum before the fall. Iceland. Definitely one of the most ostentatious emotional locations to visit along the Arctic rim.

After Hours

Closing Time

After Party

And It’s true. I have mentioned in these posts over and over again, the notion of distance. Through the use of previous photographs, I’ve tried to show that the politics of the image is always related to distance. In this regard, Icelanders are unique, especially after 1AM when leaving for after parties.

Boney M.

Icelandic Townsquare

One of the more unique intersections might best be referred to as Boney M. — Nightflight to Venus. 1978 seems to be a good year still in Akureyri, and the tunes Rivers of Babylon and Rasputin, if you have not yet heard of them, should be on your I-Tune list before blowing into town. Otherwise, you’re likely to miss perhaps the most telling moments of life in Akureyri. Well, all this jaunting had to begin somewhere, and we found ourselves principally floating into our present condition from a party at Arctic Portal, where the evening had taken its interesting turn.

Halldor Johannsson

Arctic Portal

Halldor Johannsson is the man at Arctic Portal, an internet firm that is Host to the Arctic Most. They operate the websites for APECS, IASC and several others, and Halldor, who I met several years ago when I was a council member of APECS, is as generous a person as you can find in the Arctic.

We continued our path through Arctic Portal, through their various rooms, and becoming quite interested in Iceland, its evening secrets. But before we arrived there, we began the evening by attending the bid for the next ICASS, taking place at the KEA Hotel, and sponsored by Chris Southcott, Chair, Yukon College, in Canada.

Moving through space

Across tables

It was quite a spread and Chris was magnanimous in his speech. Many in the room were beginning to think North to the Yukon.

I continued to float through the mosh, nibbling on this and that, all the while getting a sense that our panel of presentations on extractive industries was a success. At the Yukon sponsored event, Emma Wilson, Energy Team Leader for International Institute for Environment in London was catching up with Stephanie Fox, Assistant Professor in Public Health.

Emma with Stephanie

Peter Schweitzer

In attention

Peter Schweitzer, Professor in the Department of Anthropology from University of Alaska, Fairbanks, was is good form that evening as well, giving a few words to the audience gathered to hear from Chris.

And there was Jessica Shadian, who I’ve plastered all over this blog and you can read about below, she’s such a sparkling success of an academic in the Arctic, but with her is Phil Steinberg, Professor of Geography at Florida State University

Jessica & Phil

Becoming midnight

Heading Vampiric

All in all, it was dusk till dawn, in Akureyri.



Florian Stammler

6/23: Zing! Day Two —Okay, new day. Florian went ahead and started up our panel, made a lot of generous invitations to the audience to participate. The first speaker is Gunhild, presenting her materials. Yes, that’s right! Here we are, doing our presentations right this moment.

Gunhild is talking about security and all around protection and preservation. What ways that security can be applied and employed in the Arctic setting. Energy security, geopolitics, access to natural resources. Security has long been part of the Arctic. Engaging!

In Focus

Posing

Uh. Well. And there you have it. I just gave my talk! I thought it went pretty well. Wow. That’s it! That’s how it goes. You’re up there and you’re done.

It’s lunch time coming up and I’m looking forward to getting some lamb soup, a big, big item on the menu up here in Iceland. I’ll be joining James S. Baker, Doctoral Candidate in Political Science at University of British Columbia and Sari Graben, Postdoctoral Fellow at Queen’s University’s Institute for Energy and Environmental Policy. James is working on arctic governance in the context of boundaries in the seas of the High North. Sari has been working on energy legislation and actually has a law degree.

Peter Harrison, Director of the 2012 Montreal, IPY conference

David Koester & Alex King

By the way, I want to put in a plug here for the 2012 Montreal IPY conference. IPY stands for International Polar Year, 2007-2009. There have been two main IPY conferences, first taking place in St. Petersburg, Russia 2008, which I attended, and then 2009, in Oslo, Norway, which I also attended.

The next IPY conference taking place in Montreal is being directed by Peter Harrison, Professor of School of Policy Studies at Queen’s University. During the Plenary session, Peter introduced us to what’s going on around that event. Peter’s pitch was quite convincing and you can check out the website here: IPY 2012 From Knowledge to ActionWe’ll see you there!

Hjördís Guðmundsdottir

I should like to thank Hjördís Guðmundsdottir from the Akureyri Institute, who uploaded my Power Point slides and in particular, had the patience to correct one slide so that my presentation would go perfectly.

I was so determined to get rid of that one slide! Hjördís confirmed that the audience only would become confused, so we deleted it. And it’s that kind of advice, moments before giving a talk that you really come to appreciate when working as a Paparazzi Ethnographer.

Nancy, Nancy, Nancy! 

Nancy

Wachowich

N. W.

Nancy Wachowich, anthropologist extraordinaire at University of Aberdeen, Department of Anthropology.

I had meant to  post these last night, when they were taken at the Culture House. But never quite got around to it. In fact, the participating faculty of the Aberdeen Department of Anthropology joined with me and Stephen Schott and his lovely wife Susan, for dinner after the Culture House. Nancy and I split Pad Thai and a hot and sour soup. We then walked over to the Götubarinn for a midnight drink

Cowhide wall at Götubarinn

Okay, back to the conference. Day Two. We’ve gone practically through all the presentations for our extraction working group panel, and are now discussing ways to keep up the momentum in the post conference period.



6/22: Later that evening— What a day! we heard so many Interesting discussions. And there are so many people from so many interesting places! Canada, US, Norway, Russia and so on and so forth, and of course, plenty of folks from here in Iceland. After all what was said and done, we, the social scientists, all headed down for some wine and tidbits at the Culture House in downtown Akureyri.

Ilana Alice & Willow Scobie

Amos Hayes

Joanna Macdonald & Danielle Johnston

I have to admit, there are quite a few folks working in the Arctic who are doing so many interesting things these days! Ilana Allice of the Labrador Institute and Lillow Scobie, Assistant Professor in Department of Sociology, University of Ottawa, are both working in Eastern Canadian Arctic, in Labrador, with different communities on youth related issues.

Danielle Johnston is actually a Canadian government Policy Advisor on Northern Policy and she was at the Culture House with Joanna Macdonald who’s an undergraduate student at Guelph University — which is where Stephen Schott took his PhD, so it must be a highly reputable institution, because Stephen, who I comment on below, is a real smarty pants.

Brenda & Matt

The Mosh

Food-to-go



I had to laugh. Amos Hays, from Carleton University, scolded me for sneaking quietly into his session, as quietly as I could mind you, and then dipping out, before even listening to one speaker.

Of course, I was embarrassed and apologetic, in fact, I was attempting to find Grete Holsverud‘s panel, and so for this reason, I was seen several times, dipping in and out of rooms, because I did not have the correct room number.

Piano Forte

Skol!

Husky et al.

It was good to see Matthew Berman, economist extraordinaire at ISER, Alaska’s policy institute at University of Alaska in Anchorage, having an engaging conversation with a one Brenda Parlee, of University of Alberta. My there are a lot of Canadians at this year’s ICASS! The mingling went on and on, and of course, everyone was happy to see each other after the three year respite.

Ah. There they are. Timothy Heleniak and Lee Husky, with whom I shared a beer in Keflavik, and then a splendid dinner. And that’s Maria Nakhshina, Postdoctoral Research Fellow at the Max Plank Institute for Social Anthropology. And Maria by the way, is working on fishing communities in Murmansk, Russia. Well, that’s a coincidence, because as I mentioned, Murmansk is the very city that I’ve been doing fieldwork on my natural gas project, so we had a few insider stories to exchange.

Service

Rasmus Bertelsen & Gunhild Hoogensen Gjorv

Yup, that’s her. Gunhild. Gunhild Hoogensen with a Gjorv added at the end her name these days. The political scientist at University of Tromsø, Norway was in attendance, and I was indeed happy to connect with her, since we have been putting together a Fulbright application for Tromsø which is due in just a few days. Gunhild was being thoroughly entertained by Rasmus Gjedsso Bertelesen, currently a Postdoctoral fellow at the United Nations University in Japan.

We all arrived to the event by bus. And you’ll never guess! That Nelson Graburn, my own advisor, the Anthropology of Tourism to the stars, has been trying to thwart the Photographist and International Traveler (that’s me)!

Nelson and Kathy Graburn

Read my palm!

Several times, in fact, he attempted to have my camera document his writing hand. This same hand by the way has been working 40 years on the type writer, so it was a good thing we were able to get a copy of the master craftsman. What we need is an anthropological boulevard for hand prints, just like the stars. Well of course, it’s going to take a lot more than a simple hand trick to stop us from getting our photo.

The man in the man

In the end, of course, Nelson relented and by the way, we could not help noticing that his lovely wife Kathy Graburn, was enjoying the entire evening.

The evening seemed to keep moving forward, long into the wee hours. But before we take you there, we should back up a bit more and complete the afternoon happenings toward the Culture house… Oh, let’s skip it. Let me just add a few notes here. The Akureyri Culture House deserves its own blog.

Culture House

Entering

Olga Murashko, Yulia Vasilieva, Victoria Petrasheva, David Koester, Florian Stammler, Anna Kerttula, Alona Yefimenko

Actually, the Akureyri Culture House resembles the Culture House located in Nuuk, Greenland, and a few other places across the Arctic. But that’s a description for another time.



Stephen Schott

Anna Kerttula

6/22Morning of Day One — Had breakfast with Stephen Schott, University of Carleton, with whom I co-organized a workshop in Arizona on energy issues. Joining us was Anna Kerttula, Program Officer for National Science Foundation, Office of Polar Programs. We’re headed up now to the university for the beginning of the conference.

Anna and I decided to walk up to the university, and of course, we got lost — practically falling into a water logged bog, looking for short cuts. But made it up in time to catch the end of the introduction and now we’re sitting in on the first plenary presentation by Gisli Palsson titled Homo Islandicus. Palsson is talking about the constitution of the modern day Icelander, presenting a combination of television video and media images.

Opening Ceremony

Gisli Palsson

Palsson’s talk is focusing on physical anthropology of the Arctic, the category of icelanders, and kinds of evidence. And the main story is that Icelanders are always in the process of becoming Icelanders, and that physical variation is evaluation.

Sounds pretty good so far. Tracing genealogies of “strong racism” — developing anthropology for export from Germany. Palsson, traces the Icelandic fascination with Icelanders, taking the story up to the “Business Vikings” and the meltdown genetics of the past decade.

Business Vikings

Mapping Ancestry

The genomics project in Iceland, analysis of DNA samples, and receiving information about traits, and various kinds of risks. And that he can connect his own ancestry across the globe, with the price of $800 and a blood sample. Talking about the making of history, and that previously, only bones could make history, and now only DNA makes history, and that all this memory is stored actually in the body, physical, and the corporeal.

Alex King looking dashing

Svetlana Usenyuk

Florian Stammler

Lunch time.

YAY!

There are so many folks here, hundreds in fact. Alexander King, Department of Anthropology at University of Aberdeen, the ever creative Svetlana Usenyuk from Yekaterinburg, Florian Stammler, who is chairing the panel I’m on tomorrow, and is a professor in Finland.

More of Emma and Jessica

Gail Fondahl

Emma Wilson, who is from London, holding the position of Energy Team Leader for International Institute for Environment, and Jessica Shadian, from Norway, Bodø graduate school, will be also on our panel tomorrow

Gail Fondahl, professor in British Columbia. Both Gail and Jessica are both proposing that they host the next ICASS, and their proposals look wonderful! We wish them the very best, and perhaps, the runner up can host the following event.

Ann Feinup-Riordan

More Ann

Well.  I was able to pigeon hole Ann Feinup-Riordan, for a more thorough discussion on my idea of “Eskimo Science”. In fact, we brainstormed over lunch. She loved my idea, and we were able to create categories of how to move forward on an article. Eskimo – as a term that was a Unifier, has unceremoniously been discarded in science. So, the question we went through, was, who are the taste makers (terminology police), typically journal editors, who are the Rule breakers, how is non-american science still using Eskimo, who are the Practitioners and Unaware Practitioners, and the Eskimo Scientists pure and simple. That was actually VERY helpful, thanks Ann- for more “Eskimo Science”, see the post below.

Jessica Conceives

Side view

Gisli Palsson

Oh My Lord! Jessica Shadian is Pregnant!

In honor of Gisli Palsson‘s talk, we decided to take a side photo of Jessica, in the same manner that science documents these kinds of developments, in order to get the full event.

Okay, what else.

Wow! Svetlana Usenyuk, the design master, who teaches at the Arctic Design School, put together a video called Arctic Transport, and showed clips of transportation in the Russian Arctic. Such crazy ways to travel in mid-winter. Motorized vehicles that the American eye has never before seen, like small bugs zoomed up in 100 magnification. Talking about designing ideal arctic transport, because that is the most vulnerable point of arctic living. It almost makes me want me to change my research. On second thought, I’m glad that she’s doing it and not me, so I can watch the video instead of actually doing the work.

Coffee Break

Gordon Pullar

Okay, another coffee break with people munching, and oh my, look, there’s Gordon Pullar, Alutiiq Native scholar and anthropologist, who just received tenure at University of Alaska Fairbanks. Congratulations Gordon!

So now, where am I going? Well, I just bumped into Peter Schweitzer, and he is the United States member of IASC the social component of IASC at any rate. IASC stands for International Arctic Science Committee.

Well, that sounds interesting. Let’s take a closer look! Peter is right now introducing the working group, and actually there are a number of members from other countries in the room. He’s now talking about the scientific scope, that it concerns cross cutting ties, and that the geographic scope is important in defining our goals.

Peter Schweitzer and Arja Rautio close up

Peter Schweitzer and Arja Rautio from afar

But this geographical definition can be extended south, depending on the actual research. That’s cool. That includes me, because I’m always working around the globe.

Arja Rautio, who is from Finland, University of Oulu, was in the room, and I had a chance to mention that Mark Nuttall, University of Alberta anthropologist, who could not be with us here in Akureyri, has been saying some wonderful things about his joint appointment at Oulu. Pretty heavy thoughtful conversation going on at the moment. Of course, I added my two cents. Who knows what I said. I just have say something. Making my little comments.

They’re talking, now about a new conference in Krakow, Poland. !Wow! now that just caught my attention. I’ve never been to Poland!!

Okay, back to heavy conversation. There’s a certain deep-in-thought aesthetic, which often includes putting two fingers on your cheek, which helps in contemplation. Maybe crossing the other arm to support the hand that is lying on the face is helpful. All of these things are helpful to think with.



6/21: There is a new piano bar and night club in Akureyri called Götubarinn. It is operated by Sigmundur Einarsson. It opened just this past several weeks ago.

Guðrún Svana

Piano Bar

Sigmundur


It is quite sparkling, much like all the buildings, streets, nature and people here in Iceland. Guðrún Svana Hilmarsdóttir, the very capable bartender, who after witnessing several failed attempts on my part at pronunciation, finally wrote the name of the bar down on a piece of paper, so I would not forget. On weeknights, it’s open until 1AM and on weekends it’s open until 4AM. It’s Tuesday evening.

As you can imagine, the sun never sets in Akureyri during mid-summer, and as a result, it’s pretty bright all throughout the evening. We arrived, were able to drop our things off and I decided to go for a quick look-see about the city. Many of the buildings are colored in bright startling shades.

There are a lot of coffee shops, tons of restaurants and many artist craft shops in Akureyri. Some of the crafts that are created locally actually appear as appliances in other stores indicating that not all things here for sale are produced for tourism. Although it does seem, as Iceland’s largest northern town, that there is a lot of tourism in the area.

arts and crafts

wool globes

wool lamp globes









The bus route was fabulous. I sat with David Koester, the latter, an anthropology professor at University of Alaska, Fairbanks.

At the bus rest, David and I joined in lunch with Igor Krupnik, who works at the Smithsonian, and Peter Schweitzer, also an anthropology professor at University of Alaska Fairbanks. Actually, we bumped into Nelson and Kathy Graburn, at lunch, who were traveling on an earlier bus, and so were just leaving as we passed.






Spectacular views from the bus, though I can’t say that these images from the window do justice to what we saw en route to Akureyri. Nevertheless, I went ahead and took a few photos.

Earlier that same day: Heading up to Akureyri. Stayed in Keflavik at B & B, and bumped into Lee Husky, economist at University of Alaska, and Timothy Heleniak, Dept. of Geography, University of Maryland. Our conversation was dominated mostly by who would be sponsoring the next ICASS meeting — a toss up among three candidates, Chris Southcott, Chair, Yukon College, in Canada, Gail Fondahl, University of Northern British Colombia, also in Canada, and Jessica M. Shadian, Bodø Graduate School for Business in Norway. I was a bit exhausted, with probably three hours sleep over the past few days.

Parting shots

ON THE PLANE

6/20: A little sleep deprived, but otherwise alert. Writing inside the terminal, putting down a few ideas before the erosion of my memory of having just attended the Economic Forum sets in.

The Forum this year surprised me.  Clearly, I am going to have to spend more time in Russia, just hanging out and meeting with folks in St. Petersburg and Moscow. I was quite surprised by the relationship between journalists and the business community, which I did not notice in quite such dramatic detail at the last Forum. Although, I did sense that in Moscow at the Petroleum and Gas Congress, journalists dominated the question and answer periods, even at technical panels. At any rate, I will develop a closer contact with them.

Rainy and at night

Petersburg 4AM

6/19: Last evening in St. Petersburg, Russia, before heading out to Iceland. It is typical that people stay out until the wee hours here in summer.

I came back to the hotel late enough to see a bit of darkness, and got a sense of what it must be like here during winter. Foreboding, that is how it appears to me. Earlier, we headed over to Na Rechke, a restaurant located on Krestovskii Island. The salad was up to Berkeley standards.

Alexandra Boutivkin, who is something of a mid-night to 4AM guide for me here in St. Pete’s, invited me for a few drinks before my plane heads out. Alexa, a civil lawyer, strikes me as typical of the new intellectual professionals in St. Petersburg — smart, well educated, following in the footsteps of her family members. Her sister is an engineer, her father an architect and her mother a lawyer.

Berkeley-type salad

Na Rechke

Alexa Boutivkin

There are a number of islands around St. Petersburg. Some restaurants and homes are located on the canals and waterways that separate the islands. Na Rechke means on the little river, and in fact, you can get there by boat, although we got there by car.

Jessica Shadian in Nuuk, Greenland, attending the ICASS 6

Florian Stammler in Helsinki, Finland Aleksanteri Conference

Heading to Iceland Symposium: Consultation in Arctic Extractive Industries Development.

A panel organized by Florian Stammler, Professor at Arctic Centre, University of Lapland, Finland, and Jessica Shadian, Senior Researcher, Bodø Graduate School of Business, Norway.





Jessica was on a panel co-organized with Mark Nuttall (U. Alberta) and I, in Nuuk, Greenland, at the 6th ICASS. Then, about 12 arctic social scientists established an extractive resources working group. Last fall, Florian invited us to Helsinki, Finland, for the Aleksanteri Conference.

The ICASS conference takes place every three years. Attendees are social scientists working in the Arctic. The last gathering took place in Nuuk, Greenland, where in attendance was Nelson Graburn.

Paparazzi Ethnographer Arthur Mason, Nelson Graburn with Greenlanders Inga Hansen and Pia Larsen

reacting to photos

reacting to photos

Nelson is an amazing guy: witty, generous, productive, curious. Great advisor. He is flying to Iceland so we expect more good times. I will provide coverage of the event, which falls on the heels of the St. Petersburg Forum.


Paparazzi.Ethnography@rice.edu

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Forum Title: Emerging Leadership for a New Era

Epilogue

This is one of my favorite images. The Gazprom wall, with Shtokman appearing in cyrillic on the screen. The vanity project. The Shtokman project, a proposal to develop the super giant field of natural gas in the Barents Sea, remains in the back of everyone’s head here at the Forum. Any whisper about strategic partnerships, dropping comments about the need for domestic financial markets to stabilize foreign investment, the requirements for a stable and transparent regulatory framework, the need to demonstrate Russia’s prowess on Wall Street through IPOs, the requirement to create a health insurance, that would provide a well spring of domestic capital to invest in whatever. All of these issues swim around the vanity project that is the Shtokman.

It is just like this image. All these folks are wandering around under the banner of Shtokman and Gazprom, speechifying on all these different topics, and all falling under the rubric of a fossil fueled future. Let’s go again next year! Yay!



6/18: The Plenary

Filing-sitting-and-then-listening in the main hall, to Jose Luis Zapatero, PM of Spain, Taja Halonen, President of Finland, Nursultan Nazarbayev, President of Kazakhstan and Dmitry Medvedev, President of Russia. In that order. PM Zapatero droned on and on, about the need for what, I do not even remember. He was concerned about the economies in southern Europe but hopeful that everything would work out. Halonen talked about the good behavior of “Nordic sisters” and bad behavior of “southern [European] brothers”. Apparently, Greece’s debt crisis is getting on everyone’s nerves, at least in Western Europe.

President Nazarbayev

Strolling to the podium

Actually Nazarbayev was quite interesting indeed. Provocative. Cheap money is the wrecking ball of economies, “additional printing of yesterday’s currencies, is not going to be able to stop shocks.”

Considerable government debt. Revival of the global economy does not justify sustainable economy. High unemployment. Emerging markets, are showing possible signs of over heating.

960 million to one billion people are threatened with famine – global food crisis, global economicization has led to 2% of global population holding all the power. Speculative capital continues to be inflated. “All of this testifies,” he said, “for the need to take dramatic measures to reform financial sectors and get down to real business.” Wow. Slap, slap, slap.

Buddies: Presidents Medvedev & Nazarbayev

I have to hand it to Nazarbayev for coming up with academic plans in the middle of a Forum. Transition to new and fair, monetary exchange and a clear understanding about the criteria – which he “formulated more than 2 years ago in [his] article” – and then went on to outline his points: supremacy of law and a global agreement on currency, a criteria of democracy and clear procedures for printing money (“we have no idea what’s going on there”).

The “old western paradigm that led to crises has discredited itself, a new paradigm is emerging”.  We need to change the international financial architecture, accelerate the modernization of economy, provide quality services, and consider human capital as the main form of growth and create innovative approaches for students and parks for technologies.

President Medvedev

The Man in the Man

But, in the end, the day went to President Medvedev, who used the analogy of St. Petersburg weather to describe the European economies, going up and down, in a rather unpredictable manner.

The question was put to him, whether he would run for president, and of course, the entire audience got a chuckle out of that. His response was to point out that the Forum was not entirely the best place to announce such decisions, but that he planned to make his future direction known quite soon.

Earlier, I was able to attend the Renewables forum — a jammed hall, but not one member of the Ministry of Energy. I’ll write about that later.

Earlier that same day: It’s raining buckets this morning.

There’s a lot of discussion about the image problem of Russia and that many outside investors inaccurately accuse Russia of doing things wrongly. But because of this, in order to attract long term investments, there will need to be a domestic financial market, which at present does not exist.

That is what front row participants, Shiv Vikram Khemka, Vice Chairman, SUN Group, and  Vyacheslav Pivovarov, Managing Partner, Altera Capital, think at any rate, the latter, stating further that government’s role in free market economy should be fairly limited.

Then, the cameras begin and Ryan welcomes everyone. Ryan Chilcote, Bloomberg, Journalist. The themes sound like business restructuring, access to capital finance, modernization. First question is “how easy is it to raise capital when there’s capital flight.”

So, here we are starting up a panel on international expansion through funding and it looks pretty serious. Oops, Ryan made a few mistakes and we start over again. Panelists: Peter Derby, Managing Partner, The Concinnity Group suggests calculating risk adjusted to return on investments. Long term financing in the domestic market is important. Fiscal, political, legal environments need stability.

Dmitriev, Kirill General Director, Russian Direct Investment Fund, says that Russia has an “image issue” it has to address, which the state is taking on. Roman Trotsenko, President, United Shipbuilding Corporation JSC says that Russia is like swiss cheese. It’s there but with holes.

It is quite easy to raise capital for those with natural resources, but for companies working in open markets, raising capital is difficult, only a few examples of success, Yandex, after its successful IPO. But in general, it is impossible to explain to investors, what are the long term plans, and why companies can keep their competitiveness.

Okay, I am still full from breakfast. I slipped into an industry breakfast on Russian Software. There is always quite a bit of discussion about improving education and providing more regulatory clarity on taxes, across the board. Product development and marketing. Yandex, Yandex.

Weeks ago, at a lecture, I suggested that American/Western European educated Russians returning to Moscow present a vanguard working with knowledge in different ways than the older Nomenklatura class, for whom political connections remain important. A few Russian executives asked on possibilities for members of this group to become influential, in shaping politics and economy in Russia. Nomenklatura could potentially articulate members of this group into its own faction, reproducing Rear Guard (Nomenklatura) and Vanguard (Global Russian) factions for years to come. At the time, it seemed like a reasonable answer. But probably wrong.

The status of Western educated Russians remains fragmented, with the exception of those receiving an MBA or a PhD in Western Europe/America. As long as you took a post graduate degree in the West, then you continue to be part of the social and political forces within Russia. And this is because, you still retain much of the cultural knowledge required to pose, in ideologically internal ways, the appropriate kinds of questions about what constitutes Modernity in Russia today.

I have been told, that foreign investment, technology, and Western education, while incredibly important to Russia and Russians, remains modular, an outside element, plugged in for certain functional purposes but not part of the self-enclosed ideological reflection that develops questions surrounding, for example, what is Russia today?


6/17: This morning begins with an opening plenary with key note speeches by Dmitry Medvedev, President of the Russia and Hu Jintao, President of China. Attending the plenary is limited to Package-One participants. I am Package-Two, so I have filed into a screening room.

The journalists descend

upon the Stars arriving

At the Entrance to the Economic Forum

There is a buzz and prestige about which meeting rooms you can have access to here at the Forum. This morning, I came early to join the paparazzi outside the front entrance. As you can see from these photos, the entrance to the Forum itself, is site of buzz.

photo ops

Star Bar

Part of the excitement is the actual activity happening — right here on the entrance steps. There are photographers, chauffeurs, journalists, Forum representatives, Forum maintenance people, door men, an anthropologist (that’s me!), and of course, the main stars walking into the forum.

Okay, the Plenary is starting. Oops, I must say, I have some darn good luck: I just plopped down here, and seated next to me is Andy Calitz, Vice President of Shell Oil. Everyone has been asking me whether Shell will step in and team up with Rosneft on Arctic energy development, now that the deal between BP and Rosneft fell through. How should I know? Andy asked me what the word on the street was.

Shtokman in cyrillic

Chatting by phone

I told him there were three issues. First, everything is secret, no one will say boo. Second, everyone thinks that Bob Dudley of BP will go back into the fray and get a deal with Rosneft. Third, that Shell would step in and pick up the deal with Rosneft.

To this Andy replied, “I can’t say anything. Only two things: First, I was one of three persons who put the deal together on Sakhalin [project in eastern Russia] and second, I’m now in Moscow [his business card says The Netherlands]” — What do these two points mean? Well, here is an industry heavy that had a past in Russian energy, and he has just been pulled into Moscow, meaning, yes, there is something going on between Shell and Rosneft.

Medvedev speaks: Economy. Reduce corruption, increase investment, put restrictions on government.

Mayor of Moscow has entered the building

Hu Jintao, President of China — offers hearty congratulations to Medvedev. Its… a Multi-polar world. We need to press ahead with global governance and financial reform. Oppose protectionism. Transform economic development. Embrace science and innovation strategies.

I headed back into Pavilion 7 and caught a few shots of the Gazprom exhibit, with the words Shtokman in English and Russian scrolling across the scene.

  1. Golden Age of Gas: I finally found a screen that was showing the New Paths to Energy Security forum. Attendance was totally restricted, headed by Cambridge Energy’s Daniel Yergin, with Prez Medvedev, and a CEO-pile up that included Bob Dudley of BP, Helge Lund of Statoil, Peter Voser of Shell, and a long list of others.

Mayor of Moscow has left the building

Daniel Yergin comments on the cyber vulnerability of the energy system and that there is uncertainty in global market and that this makes investment outlook uncertain, and the problems of nuclear are making things much worse. There seems to be considerable discussion over nuclear, and how natural gas is going to have to pick up the slack, now that nuclear is no longer en vogue in Germany. Sergei Kirienko, Director General, State Atomic Energy “Rosatom” – responding to pessimism over atomic energy, is looking toward completing projects and states nuclear will be responsible for contributing to carbon reductions.

Bernhard Reutersberg, E.ON AG, says there’s demand for Russian gas. The “German situation” – a political decision was made to shut down nuclear and this will change the energy security situation, shutting down 17 nuclear power plants but the energy has to come from somewhere. There will be imports, but this is “really a golden age for natural gas in Germany”. There will be a need for back up capacities, and markets, if we have a time frame of 10 years to do all this, will we build up new gas generation combined with renewable.

President Medvedev

Dan Yergin

A lot of talk about increasing investment in pipelines across Europe and Russia. Creating a more stable investment climate in Russia, a central theme in the speech of Medvedev, but also in the CEO comments.

Neil Duffin, President, ExxonMobil Development, stresses the long term relationships of 20 years on these projects, and the requirement over the long term with government to make profit happen. Vladimir Bogdanov, General Director, Surgutneftegaz, stressing innovation and investment, stating a tremendous amount of capital is required. Protections in Russia over investment are at an all time high.

Indeed, Peter Voser, CEO, Royal Dutch Shell, investment is required all along the chain, and bringing in the latest technologies and contributing to the Russian economy, with partners and incentives, and wondering where the Russian state is headed over the next few years. Igor Sechin, I should mention, Deputy Minister of the Russian Federation, started the talks and suggested that the main method for developing their government calculations, would be the concept of strategic partnerships, and that contracts are being signed.

Well, now here we get to the rub:

BP CEO Bob Dudley

Responding to failed BP-Rosneft deal

Rosneft Oil Company awaits its strategic partner

Bob Dudley of BP is asked, “Why did the deal with Rosneft fail? [if we’re so interested in strategic partnerships].” Dudley’s response is smooth, a smooth operator. He states, “BP proposed a novel concept of cooperation, to pursue and develop the Arctic in strategic partnership [with Rosneft] and was not successful in reaching a set of commercial conditions [satisfactory] to all companies involved” …”But the concept was good for everyone involved…we remain solidly committed to Russian projects, we remain committed to partnerships…no new news on the subject, but BP remains committed to Russia.”

Taking the vote

The survey says

Now let’s have the Russian interpretation of what is going on:

Eduard Khudainatov, President of Rosneft Oil Company, sounds a little irked, actually. “Unfortunately BP did not close out the deal, not because of barriers of Russian government. Rosneft is pursuing the Arctic effort — pursuing negotiations — continues its search [to have in place a] strategic partner by the end of the year.”

Gazprom’s Alexei Miller

Here, President Dmitry Medvedev, turned on his microphone, and added “This is cat and mouse, [and the question is] do you like the cat? Or probably you don’t like the cat very much! That is, you don’t like the investment climate very much … in Russia, we understand [Bob’s comments] as new nuances, and understatements, by our foreign colleagues, we get a sense of what they don’t like, these innuendos should be explored [in more detail to flatten] out regulation”.

Okay, here is the fun and games. All the CEOs take a vote on what oil prices will be next year: [check out the survey says image above].

Alexei Miller, Deputy Chairman of the Board of Directors, Gazprom, says he’s the best at predicting future oil prices, but that we are all out of time, and the meeting is over. He has the last word.

Outside “the room”

Outside “the room”

So. To round the day, I had a meeting with Alex Mikhailiants, from TNK-BP, who I mentioned yesterday. The exchange took place in his meeting room. The Forum, in Pavilion 7, has all these company meeting rooms. It does not sound like much, but if you are an American anthropologist, doing research on Russian oil companies, well, being invited into a meeting room is sort of a big deal. It’s just a room of course. But the symbolism of it all.

We exchanged a few interesting details about the Forum that I just reported on above, like for example, that the CEOs who spoke, were the only one’s allowed to speak, and that all of this is highly orchestrated in advance. I did not know that. And that in fact, while some execs wanted to have say, they were told “no” several days ago.

Inside the room with my tea

So, if you go back and read what I wrote — Medvedev was the only actor who could choose what and when to say. Also, Exxon won’t go after the Rosneft deal. And I sort of knew that. Exxon is over the board and not really a team player. That was my experience in Alaska at any rate, and Alex more or less stated the same applies across the board.

Anyway. Alex was totally cool, and we’ll be following up with him soon, as he’s invited me back to Moscow for a recon later this year. And there’s a conference on Arctic gas development in Moscow, so I want to be ready for that.



6/16: Later that eveningWe decided to go to the Sting concert after all. I was not quite sure what to expect. But in fact, I was surprised by the whole event, taking place in front of the Hermitage, in St. Petersburg, Russia, and the star quality of Sting the musician himself.

wading through past the crowd

Reuters News Agency’s Irina Narodnitskaya

On the other side of the Barricade

The entire city was invited. And they showed up. But delegates of the Economic Forum had special privileges to pass into a space located near the stage.

There were tents with food and wine, et cetera. And you needed to have your badge or else no entry. Reuters News Agency’s Television Operations Supervisor from Moscow, Irina Narodnitskaya and I waded through the mass crowd, which was difficult. Finally, we passed through the barricade, into the special zone. I could not help taking a photo of the barricade and the mass of folks.

Sting

on stage

in front of the Forum crowd

Impressive indeed. I did not realize how well Sting performs. His voice is the same as if he was just a kid. And he’s in great shape.

St. Petersburg loved him. I was quite impressed with the Economic Forum. At first, I didn’t want to go, since I sort of knew Sting’s music, it was difficult for me to see the point of it all. But then, standing there, in the midnight sun, in front of the Hermitage, in St. Petersburg, listening to Sting, as part of the Cultural Program for the International Economic Forum, everything seemed to make sense to me. And I realized that this really was some great ethnography, and a spectacular evening in Russia.

The St. Petersburg International Economic Forum brought in a top star, as a guest for their guests, and the city as well. And I have to hand it to them, after a day of amazing meetings, this was just that kind of event that could put everything over the top.

6/16: Noon  
– Great internet reception inside the Forum, and I am going to attempt to report live as we’re going through.

ready, set

go

The big early event, which is just about to take place, is the Oil and Gas medium-term report produced by the International Energy Agency (IEA).

I just met with the panelists, all stationed in Paris, British David Fyfe, Head of Oil Industry and Markets Division, American Greg Frost, Head of the Press Unit, and Hungarian Laszlo Varro, Head of Division Gas, Coal and Power Markets.

Geoff Smith, Dow Jones Journalist

IEA’s David Fyfe and Laszlo Varro

I’m sitting at this moment in the front row next to Geoffery Smith, Dow Jones journalist in London, Macro Economics, former Moscow Bureau Chief, sent wherever there’s a hole in the line, covering typically Eurozone situations, but sent here to fill in loose ends.

Geoff was covering Moscow from 2002-2007 and just gave me a great reference to another journalist working on oil and gas issues. When I asked Geoff what he looks for, he states that the main report on the IEA has been written up in the office, and that he looks for added value comments. Jeff mentioned to me that when he was covering energy issues — the Shtokman project was always rolling into the future at a 5 year expectation.

room at large

Speaking now is Nobuo Tanaka, Executive Director of IEA reading from a pre-written statement about the main points of their mid-term report. I asked Laszlo how they found themselves here in the first session, and he stated that while Russia is not a member of IEA, the country remains terribly important, especially in the area of communications on energy issues. Laszlo will be in Washington, D.C., next week presenting the report.

Nobuo is now talking about China, India and Middle East, and how demand is growing, referring to these countries as non-OECD and comparing to OECD markets, where demand is sluggish. “Continuous economic recovery will increase demand growth in the non-OECD markets” — “current significant risk of oil prices on current economic recovery” —

typing

writing

Everyone in the room is going crazy on their computers, writing up their notes, sending them out immediately, and the cameras are flashing everywhere. But people are still writing by hand! Okay, now David is speaking about Oil and Laszlo will be talking about gas. He comments about the drivers of oil prices, and that fundamentals don’t matter, and that exchange rates are driving things (conventional wisdom)- but in fact, empirical research suggests that causality flows from oil prices to exchange rates.

Talking about 65% of demand comes from transportation, oil remains the transportation fuel of choice, going through 2016. David doesn’t use any notes, just talking off the cuff, and delivering capacity numbers rattling off the top of his head — Natural gas liquids, becoming an increasingly important part of the mix [interesting! for the Shtokman project].

cameras

Okay, Laszlo is now speaking about Natural Gas: Gas production is exactly the level as it was before the financial crisis, 2008 [we’re back on track!] — production increases in all areas. In North America, the “gas shale revolution” continues. Most prices are on an upward trend with the exception of North America, and that US and Canada remain “disconnected” from other markets.

Wow, Laszlo just mentioned that China is on the upswing of natural gas consumption in ways it never was before. More gas required. The total production of coal mining in China is greater than the total present global LNG capacity, suggesting that any change to coal in China will have deep ramifications for increased production and transportation of LNG (Liquefied Natural Gas– cryogenically frozen for shipment by sea).

What is the gas demand implications of lower nuclear power in Japan and Germany? Answer: more gas. “Demand is growing in all sectors, but electricity dominates”. No news there. Two most important supply sources are Middle East and Former Soviet Union. Laszlo points out that Germany is “not an island” and surrounded by France and Central Europe, which have reiterated their commitment to nuclear.

Natural gas production

Shtokman Liquefied Natural Gas expectation shown in dotted line

Laszlo doesn’t think that shale gas will be upended by environmental concerns, stressing that shale gas can happen without too much ado. However, the gas industry must take care, given that the ramp up in production has created stresses that the industry should be talking more seriously. Laszlo states that “Shtokman LNG, is a very, very difficult project, not operational in the next 5 years” — Jeff and I look at each other and laugh.

The IEA Oil and Gas Market Outlook report is available for sale on the website, but there are some copies of main ideas at the back. Question Time: “Preference for questions are given to journalists” Jeff asks the first question. Melissa Akin from Reuters asks the second question: Both questions have to do with whether Saudi Arabia will release more oil to lower the price of gas.

Melissa and Geoff writing for a deadline

Elena Zotova flashes her yellow press badge

Melissa originates from Nebraska and has been working in Moscow on oil and gas issues, as Senior Energy Correspondent for three years. I had a chance to debrief also with Elena Zotova from ANO TV Novosti, in Moscow. Elena is another journalist covering energy issues and has been keenly interested in finding out more about the Rosneft – BP development, which fell apart recently, and has opened space for Shell to intervene. But, she mentioned, so much of the information is secretive, nevertheless, there should be opportunities to get the info here at the Forum!

Terry Macalister

Instant Nobuo

Phew! After it was all over, we all flooded out into the main room, which has dark wood paneling looking like a law office. Geoff, Laszlo and I chat briefly, and then I head for a seat to gather my thoughts, next to yet another journalist! Terry Macalister, who works for the Guardian newspaper in England, which is still free to read on the internet, and who has just been given his award for his research on Arctic oil development.  Imagine that! We had a few things to say, considering we both work on the Arctic.

apple can’t drop

Well, Okay. I will just walk into the US-Russian negotiation room and see what’s going on there–  It is a discussion on what has happened over the past 2 years since we all pressed the “Reset Button”. The American Ambassador to Russia, John Beyrle, is suggesting that economics is the baseline for the reset button. Investment rates between the two countries, US and Russia, are incredibly low. A key priority for the Obama administration is WTO membership for Russia – working through the final talks over the next several days, getting close to the finish line. It will result in huge reductions in service sector tariffs, help reduce costs, operate more efficiently, reductions could increase GDP by 14 percent.

reading a novel while the ambassador speaks

Also, the US is concluding a Bilateral Investment Treaty (BIT) – to protect cross border investment and protect investors. In three weeks, US and Russia expect to sign a visa deal that would provide a three-year travel visa for business and tourism without invitations. Hm. okay, well, the room is absolutely jammed, and I am sitting in the back hooked up to the wall for electricity sitting next to someone who seems to be totally ignoring the goings on and reading a novel.

Andrew Summers, President of American Chamber of Commerce in Russia, representing 700 companies, is bullish over the future of American companies working in Russia.

I need to go outside for some air. Oh My Lord! Its Alexander Mikhailiants, my Hero! (and former speech writer for Robert Dudley) – Holy smokes! I’m so happy to see the man. Alex is the reason for how I found myself at the Forum!

Alexander Mikhailiants – executive at TNK-BP

Pavilion 7 – from same spot on the balcony as last year

As I have written in this very blog (scroll down), Alex and I originally met in Houston at the Cambridge Energy Week conference, in 2010, and he suggested if Arctic was my interest, then I have to come here to the Forum!

Alex has held various titles at TNK-BP, including Advisor to the CEO, International Affairs (when he was assisting R. Dudley). Wow. What a great coincidence. We’ve just planned to meet tomorrow at 5PM for drinks and more discussion — in the TNK-BP meeting room in Pavilion 7 — the super polished pavilion with Gazprom installation and everything else.

Phew! Never leave fun to have fun.

Brad Cook, Bloomberg Journalist

Brouhaha Brewing over Cberbank

Brad hugs fellow journalist Alexander Kolyander, Wall Street Journal

Well, I’m stumbling across Pavilion 7, and there really is some kind of brouhaha going on, with a bunch of journalists crammed into one corner, near the Sberbank exhibit.

What is that!? Brad Cook, big wig at Bloomberg News has just informed me that Chief Executive Officer German Gref of Russia’s largest bank, Cberbank, is about to make an important announcement. Brad, is actually from Portland, been here for years, started up the Bloomberg office several years ago, when there were only four persons and now they are up to 20 staff.

Cberbank CEO German Gref

The Booms directed toward the CEO

He got a real kick out of my project, or at least the way I described it, stating there are not enough anthropologists these days covering exactly what I am studying.

In fact, he gave me the name of another Bloomberg journalist, Anna Shiryaevskaya, with whom I should meet to discuss arctic energy issues, and I just sent her an email, because in fact, we were corresponding last year, so it will be fantastic to meet up with her here.

Well, it certainly is a journalist pile-up, especially as German showed up. I have found myself trapped in the thick of things, and have just now barely escaped. The fact is I’m hungry. My new favorite spot is the balcony, which is where I use to hang out last year and all the good food is located.

Passing the Gazprom Exhibit

Getting a snack

Exchanging business cards

There seems to be a lot happening around Gazprom. But I’m going to keep focused on the food. Lucky for me, because I have just bumped into Woodward Clark Price. That is right — Director of Russia and Central Asia for the the National Security Council, The White House. Our White House in the US of A. Can you imagine? I nearly took a photo of him, but it did not seem like the right thing to do, and since I wanted to leave a good impression, I just introduced myself. We exchanged business cards.

I thought his card looked totally cool, and I told him so. He thanked me for the compliment. Can you imagine, having “The White House” printed on your business card, next the word “Director” and the phrase “National Security Council”. Wow. That must be some kind of job.

Pavilion 4

Pavilion 6 – the Press Hall

Pavilion 8 — Internet Knowledge Cafe

I will end the day with a few parting shots. These are taken around the Pavilions. In retrospect, it is a good idea to visit an event like this a few times, you see different things, meet new folks.



6/15: I had a rather unusual day. First, it was pouring buckets, and I realized that the only garment I required, a trench coat, was somehow left lying on my bed back in Berkeley, not having made it into my luggage. After getting soaked, I ducked into an underground market, and purchased an umbrella, only to find that when I came out from the shelter, that the rain had stopped, and I would be stuck carrying around this “zontik” (as they say in Russian), the rest of the day.

In many ways, the confusion was a precursor for what would occur next. Let me begin with some background:

Oleg Kharkhordin, Rector at European University in St. Petersburg, speaking last year at the Forum

About a year or so ago, when I began this project, maybe longer than that, I contacted — in reference to conducting research in Russia — a brilliant sociologist by the name of Oleg Kharkhordin. Oleg, if I may be so informal, received his PhD from UC Berkeley and wrote a masterful book about the individual and the collective in Soviet society.

The introduction was really quite impressive, especially his delicate treatment of secondary analyses of the work of Michel Foucault, at the hands of Paul Rabinow, the latter an anthropologist at Berkeley, and a member on Oleg’s PhD committee. I remember reading a draft chapter of his dissertation, while in my first year as a graduate student at Berkeley.

Oleg went on to become the Rector at the European University in St. Petersburg, Russia, one of the finest universities around. And — if judged by how many Economic Forum attendees in striped suits were moving through his office, while I sat in the waiting room — he appears to be quite important .

When I initially contacted him, after I received my grant from the National Science Foundation (NSF) to extend my research from Alaska into Russia and Norway, Oleg demurred, in large part, because he had just taken on the new role of Rector. He was also in initial conversations with other universities, so the timing wasn’t great to entertain collaborations with new universities (I was at Arizona at the time) and especially on my research — which was potentially controversial, because it tread on issues having to do with matters of the nation-state.

Waiting room for the Rector

Painting in the waiting room of the Rector

And it is true, my project focuses on knowledge flows surrounding the construction of desire for developing the Shtokman natural gas field in the Barents Sea, which is a priority for Vladimir Putin, and which has experienced something of a set back, in part, because the Russian sector was late to take seriously, as everyone else was, the importance of unconventional natural gas development in the United States, which increased gas reserves and production enormously, and by default, called into jeopardy, one of the main marketing components of the offshore Barents Sea project (shipments of liquefied natural gas to the United States).

It is a long story, but the short of it is, that my project was exploratory, it still is exploratory — and at the time, it didn’t seem like a great fit to be dinkering around with from Oleg’s perspective.

Brass shingle indicating University location

Front door near shingle

Well, jump forward a year, and here I am ensconced back at UC Berkeley, still plying my trade, wandering the landscape with my little project —

And lo, Oleg invites me to meet with him. I walk into his office, expecting to beat about the bush, and here he tells me that his university has just been awarded a grant from Exxon and possibly a second from BP and in fact, they need someone who does social sciences of energy, so please immediately, send over my CV and articles, so we can get the can kicking down the road.

Street near door

Bober kissing koshka

As you can imagine, as he shook my hand, stating we would see each other at the Forum, I grabbed my umbrella and walked out dumbfounded. Let us see what’s next.



metro lighting

6/14: I went to see Goar Shaginyan, one of the handlers at the St. Petersburg International Economic Forum (SPIEF). Each guest is assigned a handler to answer questions, solve problems, et cetera. Goar was frightfully busy so I didn’t detain her.

On the way, I took notice of the type of lighting in the St, Petersburg metro. Fluorescent lights, sodium lamps, green (?) lights, reflected and direct lighting. The foot-candle illumination of the St. Petersburg metro system has got to be pretty high– you can read a book by it, and possibly thread a needle.

Metro Lighting

The SPIEF materials are available on Facebook, with a video interview of Petersburg Governor Valentina Matviyenko discussing its significance.

There are also sound bytes from experts anticipating events to take place, including resolution of a proposed joint proposal between two oil giants, British Petroleum, headed up by Robert Dudley, and the Russian concern, Rosneft.

Chatting with Goar, I learned of two types of SPIEF participation: Package-One and Package-Two. If you are important, you get Package-One, which is access to everything. If you are less important, like me, you get Package-Two, which provides access with restrictions.

light to read

The Minister for Economic Development, Elvira Nabiullina, decides the participation of each person with a “stamp” (the word Goar used).

For example, I cannot attend the first Plenary Session, with key note speeches by Dmitry Medvedev, President of the Russia and Hu Jintao, President of China. However, I can attend the second Plenary Session, with an address again by Medvedev.

Along with Medvedev, there will be addresses by Tarja Halonen, President of Finland, Nursultan Nazarbayev, President of Kazakhstan, and Jose Luis Rodriguez Zapatero, Prime Minister of Spain. I am looking forward to being in the same room with Medvedev.

Goar didn’t know what distinguishes between the two packages, but suggested that I publish more articles and maybe the Minister would reconsider next time.

Most of Package-One meetings will be broadcast through media, so I should be able to cover everything I wanted to attend. I left Goar to her last minute details.




Accrediting at Hotel Continental

6/13: Today, I went to get accredited for the Forum. Attending the event requires an invitation from the organizing committee (which I received), then, getting an ID badge. This requires printing out a confirmation receipt with bar code, and passport in hand– and checking in at one of the booths.

Last year I checked in at the airport — blew in, felt like a star! Forum staff spotted me and did the rigmarole. Impressive indeed.

This year, I wanted to wander around the city to see where an elite would go, to get accredited. Well, the short answer, is that the spaces of accreditation feel Western, global, entrepreneurial and privileged. The Forum has since created the double badge identification card. One result is that I have to wear a lanyard around my neck, as I won’t be able to clip two badges on my suit.

Hotel Europa

Difficult not to feel the excitement of the Forum by way of the volunteers. I spoke with several accreditation staff, and it is an elaborate process to volunteer. They take written exams to test what responses to give to questions from attendees.

They are instructed to state that the Petersburg Forum is the “Davos of Russia” —  (world economic forum in Switzerland).

Anthropology passes as a kind of tourism. I travel, look at things, take photographs, get excited about meeting people, eat food, stay in hotels and take a shower.

Spaces of Accreditation

Spaces of Tourism

Sometimes, I notice the spots on the tourist map, like the Hermitage where Russia keeps its artistic treasures, or stumble onto exhibits in parks.






6/8: These days, it is fashionable to use the phrase space of exception to refer to an experience outside of time and structure. The phrase was coined by Giorgio Agamben, to refer to the power of government in creating spaces that strip the political rights from persons (e.g., concentration camps, Guantanamo), placing them in a state of limbo.

barefoot

The Terminal

Friends often invoke the idea, space of exception, when traveling through an airport — in reference to strip searches and security cameras that dismantle a person’s rights within the space of transit.

It is easy to forget that the originary formula for space of exception is the word Liminality. Liminality means just that, a liminal or limbo state, outside of structure. It refers to the work of Arnold Van Gennep (1909), who years ago noted the importance of Rites of Passage, suggesting that ritual practice is a form of transition marking three phases: separation, margin (signifying threshold or liminality) and aggregation.



6/6: I obtained my Russian Visa from Russian Travel.

Jay Jay

Andrey displays my visa










6/2: Gearing up for St. Petersburg:

  1. Village of Teriberka: Proposed Terminal for the Shtokman Gas Field.
  2. Key Categories of Individuals: Consultant Experts, Journalists, Executives, Government Officials, Academics, Financial Experts, Administrative Handlers.
  3. Key Analytical Categories: Russian Vanguard/Rear Guard; Norwegian-Russian Relations; Russian-Consultant Relations.
  4. Aesthetics and Art: Knowledge, Technocracy and Gesture.
  5. Meaning Created at the Site Itself: Davos of Russia.
  6. Securing the Body: Enhancing Corporeal Safety.

Energy Pavilion Plan

Chatting

Last year’s St. Petersburg International Economic Forum resembled a theme park.

Maps are available in pavilions to guide you with well known markers.

In the energy pavilion I found four points that seemed cardinal: Chess Lounge; Internet Knowledge Cafe; Gazprom installation; Russian financial concern, Sberbank. In between a lot of things happen– art installations, closed meeting rooms for executives, journalist booths, chatting, wandering, reading newspapers, drinking wine.

Chess Lounge

Knowledge Cafe

Both the chess and internet lounges are spaces of silent conversation– stationary locations, but still wandering consciously– across a boardgame or via internet.

Two other brash coordinates mark the boundary of this pavilion: Sberbank and Gazprom.

It’s difficult to say why I took these photos. It seems remarkable to me now that I did not focus on the Gazprom installation. My only image is from the balcony over looking the pavilion.

Sberbank

Gazprom

The installations did not seem to match the pavilion map. I was often confused, but excited by all the things going on as I passed through these spaces.


6/1: I went through my Oslo Energy Forum contacts to see who would be attending in St. Petersburg. Awaiting replies.



5/31: I had a great conversation with Mr. J., a handler for BP CEO Bob Dudley in London. I wanted to schedule a meet and greet with Bob in St. Petersburg. Mr. J. mentioned the possibility that Bob would be milling or he might simply run in and out.



5/19: Visa. I need a Russian Visa. Last year, I obtained a Visa via mail through Russian Connections Travel, located in San Francisco. This year, I collected my things and paid a visit to the company – in person.

Jay Jay

Visa Office

The entrance to Russian Connections Travel is as close as you can get to the corner of Powell and Geary streets, at Union Square, without spilling over into the street. The first person you encounter inside the pre-war marble lobby is Jay Jay.

He signs you in and directs you to your destination. I’m a fan of novelist Dashiel Hammett, and the building fits a common description of haunts frequented by Samuel Spade, a central character in Hammett’s work of the 1920s and 30s hard boiled detective novels.

Upon arrival, Andrey Zakharenko, scolded me mildly for screwing up the visa application but was jocular over my aplomb and never blinked when I retook his photo several times, because of back lighting. A Muscovite, Andrey referred to me as a “rarity” — someone born in San Francisco who still lives here.

Sam Spade-like stairwell

Andrey Zakharenko – Russian visa master

In the short time that we exchanged bawdy comments, I came to realize that here was a guy who pretty much sized me up within a few minutes of my passing over to him a passport, photos, application and check. It is that way sometimes.


5/18: I just received confirmation from Goar Shaginyan about participation at the St. Petersburg International Economic Forum. I also bought the jet plane ticket to Russia. Exasperating. I sat continually pressing the purchase link only to be denied the least expensive flight. I gave in and purchased something in the mid range.

invitation

invitation

Today I am going to San Francisco for my visa. I should point out that getting into the Forum is a big deal once you get inside Russia. An entire area of St. Petersburg is cordoned with security police. Therefore, you must be accredited in advance, at various points in the city.

Last year, Alexandra Karamanova and I blew into St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport and were accredited right there at the terminal. It was superb. Directly out of customs, we noticed a young woman dressed in white and blue with a red scarf (colors of the Russian flag) waving to us, recognizing we were Americans, and asking us if we were heading to the Forum. At the time, I was oblivious to the attention that was unfolding directly in front of me as I hauled off the jet plane.

Accrediting at Pulkovo

Alex and Security

Yet, as we approached the city by taxi we realized how securitized the event was and we thanked our stars that all was settled at Pulkovo.

Banners hang across the city advertising the event. In truth only a tiny fraction of city residents attend. This year, I will be arriving a few days earlier than when the accreditation begins at the airport. I will have to visit a hotel site instead.


5/17: I was sitting around this evening when a buzz came over my I-Phone and I noticed the country code originating from Russia. It was a midnight call from Goar Shaginyan, letting me know that I’d been invited to attend the St. Petersburg International Economic Forum. Goar was so totally pleasant and I was in such a good mood. She had called earlier explaining that it would be another two weeks before the Forum organizers came to any conclusions about my invitation, and then lo, within a few hours, she called back wishing me a safe journey to Russia.

Goar Shaginyan (L), organizer for St. Pete’s Economic Forum

I first heard about this event while attending CERA week in Houston, North America’s mega exclusive energy event. I was chatting with Alexander Mikhailiants, former speech writer for Robert Dudley, when the latter was heading up the Russian-British joint venture oil company TNK-BP. Alexander quite specifically stated to me that if expertise and arctic gas was my interest, then I would have to pay a visit to the Petersburg Forum. Alexander has held various titles at TNK-BP, including Advisor to the CEO, International Affairs (when he was assisting R. Dudley).

Alexander Mikhailiants of TNK-BP

My talk with Alexander was the first with a Russian oil company executive about my developing research. Our meeting took place by chance. I had snapped a photo of a computer display that uses a security bar code. CERA conference participants use their identification badge as a key. The image was intended to capture the mix of security, computer access and corporate logo — but I realized that my photo captured the face of a client. I asked permission to keep the photo, and Alexander replied in the affirmative. I noticed his Russian accent, so I introduced myself.

I explained my project by showing him a poster presentation that I was able to access on the internet right there through the computer. Alexander was polite, intrigued and invited me to explain further. I mentioned that the previous CEO of his company, Robert Dudley had agreed to meet me in London to which he became excited and requested that I show him the actual email invitation.

After reading my email exchange with Dudley, Alexander stated that indeed — what I had was “real access”. He then explained that he had been Dudley’s speech writer and that I should pass on his regards. He nodded in the direction that we walk outside, indicating he wanted to smoke as well as explain to me the intrigue behind TNK-BP’s relationship with the Russian government.

invitation request

We sat down on patio chairs, across from two Cambridge Energy employees, who engaged us with small talk. Catching the hint that Alexander wanted to speak privately, they excused themselves as if they had already intended to leave.

Alexander explained the stumbling blocks of my project. He personally understood what I was attempting to carry out. His grasp of my exploratory idea, he explained, was a measure of his having been educated in America, and then picked up by TNK-BP while working for a consulting firm that placed foreign companies at the disposal of Russian business groups. In reality, few people in industry would understand what I’m doing. In fact, most would be down right suspicious, especially government, which was occupied by middle aged officials.

He is most likely correct. Nevertheless, I have been able to manage thus far. It could be that representatives of the Russian government and industry just don’t see what I’m doing as important. The fairly straight forward manner in which I represent my project is evidence. My letter submitted to the Organizers of the St. Petersburg Forum lays out the topic in plain terms (see above).

Robert Dudley, Honcho for BP appearing on St. Pete’s website

Returning to my conversation with Alexander, he opined that BP is sensitive to stakeholders (defined quite broadly as civil society), while Russian companies –no names mentioned — typically tend toward dictating terms.

He suggested I contact journalists, NGO groups and possibly the New School of Economics in Moscow. He gave me his business card, and wrote down his personal email address suggesting we stay in touch.

I have got to send an email to Robert Dudley, current head of British Petroleum. As I mentioned, last year at this time, I was supposed to see him in London. Before I arrived, there was the terrible oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico, and Robert was called away to handle the disaster. Robert will be giving a key-note at the St. Petersburg Forum, and the organizers have splashed his photo on the website.

Press image of the new Holmenkollen ski jump

Oslo Energy Forum at Holmenkollen Hotel — an image of the new state-of-the-art ski jump serving as a seriously brooding back drop at dinner speeches

I noticed also another one of my friends will be giving a key note: Helge Lund, CEO of Statoil, Norway’s largest oil company. I first met Helge — a few months ago at the Oslo Energy Forum taking place at the high-end Holmenkollen Hotel, perched on top of Oslo next to the fully remodeled Holmenkollen ski jump.

Helge and I chatted.

I plan to devote a few posts to the Oslo Energy Forum — Europe’s oil and gas watering hole, by invitation only and costing $14000 to attend. In fact, Robert Dudley had spoken at the Forum one year previously. But as I said, I’ll come back to that event in a full blown manner.

Helge’s calling card – with the Statoil head of Russia

Helge Lund, appearing on St. Pete’s website

I expressed curiosity to Helge about who had taken over as the new head of Statoil in Russia, and he promptly wrote down the name Jan Helge Skogen, with an invitation to contact him so that he could make the connection.

Last year, we had met Bengt Hansen, then president of Russian Statoil, a generous guy who gave us quite a bit of time in his Moscow office. We were introduced to Bengt by Ivar Tangen, previous chair of Oslo Energy Forum, who we met in Oslo a few weeks prior. And here is something funny, after our meeting with Bengt: In Moscow, we actually bumped into him in a restaurant — in the middle of Moscow. Can you imagine? How crazy is that?

Alex preparing to meet with Bengt Hansen, then President of Statoil, Russia

I always laugh at the memory. I had actually bumped into Bengt on my way out of the bathroom. There we were within eye shot of Alexandra Karamanova, who promptly hopped out of her seat and ran over so that the three of us looked like the best of buddies. I loved that. And I should add here, that when I was in Oslo in February, I was chastised at the dinner table by my neighbor, another Statoil heavy weight, who scolded me for not having crashed, er, gone to Bengt’s retirement party in Moscow. I had the address and had laid down an on-going bet with Alex about whether to go. I was told that the party was a buffet.

Alexandra Karamanova at St. Pete’s Economic Forum 2010

Oh well. Admittedly, we were a little wide-eyed last year when we attended all these events, roaming the Russian landscape as paparazzi neophytes. Speaking of which, we’ll miss Alex on this trip. She was so dog-gone helpful and hilarious to-boot. She is playing with the Arizona team, and since my relocation to Berkeley (Go Bears!), all my NSF funds will be spent in-house.

I’ll keep adding to this posting. I want to capture all the little doo-das, from the visa permit to the what nots– all the imponderability associated with what it actually takes to mingle with — well, I was about to say the not-so-famous, but we might have to correct that soon, to something more suitable for this particular occasion, perhaps the not-yet-so-famous but still, the Davos (World Economic Forum) of Russia.


5/10: We attended last year and ran into Daniel Yergin along with representatives of media, moguls, and stars.

2010 St. Pete’s Forum

Beautiful People

Future Visions

Click-to-enlarge these photos to appreciate the conspicuous status, ambition and wealth that permeates from the symbols in these images. The middle image has a white Mercedes in the background — technologies of the future.

To be allowed into the Economic Forum we need an invitation. To get an invitation, we need to sign up on the website and then hope the organizers consider our participation worthy of such an esteemed event. As part of our pitch, we include a letter from the faculty chair requesting participation (see above). Then, we call and speak directly with the organizers.

The event, as described to me several times by western executives represents a visit to kiss the ring. Here, they refer to a feeling that to conduct business in Russia, western CEOs have to be on their best behavior with Prime Minister Vladimir Putin.

French President Nicolas Sarkozy (with Alex)

Russian and French Presidents cozy style

Russian President Dimitry Medvedev

Last year’s event was spectacular as these photos demonstrate. Yes, that’s right. There we are in the same room with two World Leaders!

On the last day, we attended speeches by Russian president Dimitry Medvedev and French president Nicolas Sarkozy. Sarkozy, btw, decided to throw away his written notes provided to him by his aides, and speak off the cuff. It was the most jumbled set of ideas and expressions ever placed into perfect English translation. Notice in these photos, by the way, the emphasis on modernity by reference to a Russian Imperial past. The background mural on the stage, and for that matter, the entire Forum surroundings as depicted on the murals of the pavilions is a projected image of Peterhof palace (Petrodvorets) — a famous residence of Russian Tsars on the Finland coast.

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No. 1 — Technology Transfer …




My current research in northern Europe and Russia, an approach different from what I undertook for the North American Arctic, began from email exchanges with the Russian natural gas guru, Director of Oxford Energy Institute, Jonathan Stern.

Actually, prior to this — as my initial purpose for contacting Stern — I stumbled across a curious set of quotes from his early work on the Russian natural gas industry development written during the late 1980s — fascinating for according to Stern’s telling, the corporeal body of Western expertise remained in “the West”.


And it transfixes because of the question the sentence raises: what form of Western expertise circulates into Russia on the topic of natural gas development prior to the 1990s, if it is not the body of the Western expert?


Stern states:

As far as the Soviet domestic industry is concerned, I would suggest that the Soviet authorities will be extremely reluctant to allow Western Personnel on Soviet soil, particularly for a project such as the construction of a large-scale pipeline” (124).


Today, Western experts travel through into Russia — on Soviet soil — and provide advice on various concerns of the natural gas industry. The corporeality of Western expertise, the actual body of the natural gas energy expert is the topic of my research, and its circulation within Russia. For this reason, I became fascinated by the kind of language used by Stern, to describe the circulation of Western expertise into Russia — without the body of the expert. Here are some examples:


It is argued that irrespective of current technology transfer, however, ‘more American exploration and exploration equipment for maximal development of the Samotlor fields in West Siberia and potential reserves in East Siberia onshore and offshore may be a critical requirement” (152, emphasis mine).


and again,


There are certain key areas in which Western technology does play an important role. For the gas industry, straight purchase of large-diameter pipe and compressor station units continue to be of immense importance…” (150, emphasis mine).


and,


The imported technology and hard currency that such development would contribute to the Soviet economy was one incentive, and this was backed by the realization that, without Western assistance, ten to fifteen years would be added to the lead times for bringing the east Siberian deposits into projection” (117, emphasis mine).


In the following quotes, notice the emphasis on material technology transfer:


Italy has been receiving Soviet gas since 1974 in return for steel pipe deliveries from [the company] Findsider” (105, emphasis mine).


Many Western contractors are involved in the project, with much of the pipe coming from West Germany and Japan” (78, emphasis mine).


It is doubtful whether Soviet capacity to manufacture large-diameter pipe can expand at a sufficiently rapid rate to meet the increasing demand. The inference must be that in the future, as in the past, they will rely to a large extent on imports of these materials from the West” (74, emphasis mine).



All the gas currently exported to Western Europe is in exchange for deliveries of pipeline and gas field equipment” (49, emphasis mine).

In Short

      • technology transfer
      • key areas [of] Western technology
      • imported technology
      • Western assistance
      • steel pipe deliveries
      • pipe coming from West Germany and Japan
      • materials from the West
      • deliveries of pipeline and gas field equipment


…without the body.




















No. 2 — To Paddington Station …

I remember quite distinctly the several hours before my first meeting with Jonathan, when we had just flown into London. A driver from Howard Swiss Hotel met us at the airport. Through to London, we passed the cheaper bed and breakfasts recalling my previous visits, either alone, with friends or with my father and now grateful that on this trip I was released from those shoddy rooms.

Settled, we walked up Victoria embankment along the river, past Cleopatra’s needle, then up through Trafalgar Square past the national museum through Piccadilly Circus and through China town, before finding a British pub for dinner. From there we walked through Covent Garden back to the Swissotel. The town was buzzing. A hot afternoon. We among the throng. I wondered how OS would respond to the crowds and architecture. There was no difference between our conversations from the office. A changed environment but still speaking about the same issues. Didn’t sleep much, waking at 4AM, watching a film.

We walked over the millennium bridge, past the Tate Modern Museum along the river to breakfast at the Roast on Stoney Rd. a recommendation from the Concierge.  Here is where our trip began. I could say that it began earlier, when the night before we departed, and instead of working in the office, we drove into P., having dinner on CB. But it was in the Roast, having coffee after breakfast, that I began to express my underlying motivations about the trip. That I began to unpack the style of my thinking about what expectations I did not have concerning research, data, and meetings with professionals.

I suggested that we were focusing on method, and especially our method. Learning was not important, or not as important as reflecting on our expectations about the context of learning and representing knowledge. That is, how up to that point, we could say: we flew, we rested and now we would be in meetings. But how instead, we had talked ourselves into a frenzy about what things could and could not possibly mean, and therefore, how the spaces in between the so-called real events could sink the entire project, and that I would like to see things nearly sink, because of my desire to emphasize everything.

We left breakfast toward the Tate Modern, and discovered the time was overdue, and we needed to head back to the hotel to prepare for our appointment with J. S.

We were seated in Café Rizzata at Paddington Station, and J. S. came up to shake our hands, and then stated he would grab something to drink from the vendor. As I watched him at the counter, I reminded myself that I had carried out this exact scene hundreds of times—meeting with someone to discuss my project. What is my project? The meeting itself, an experimental exchange in which a guest is invited to share some thoughts for which there is no determined outcome, and no result.

Which raises several points that OS and I talked about for the next 2 hours, after the end of the meeting. And then again in particular, during dinner over ramen with chopsticks and on the way back to the hotel past the millennium bridge where we decided to grab the last call on the embankment looking across the River Thames.

In a conversation between Shatov and Nikolai Stavrogin from Fyodor Dostoevsky’s The Demons, Shatov states: “Can’t I see by your face that you’re at grips with some awesome new thought?”

He continues, explaining to Stavrogin, about the power of an expression used by the latter several years before: “there was a teacher uttering immense words, and there was a disciple who rose from the dead. I am that disciple and you are the teacher.” Shatov continues: “It is hard to change gods. I did not believe you then because I did not want to believe… but the seed [the idea] remained and grew” (emphasis mine).

Stavrogin replies in various ways: “I was not joking with you then, either; in persuading you, I was perhaps more concerned with myself than with you.”  Stavrogin again: “If I had a belief, I would no doubt repeat it now as well; I wasn’t lying, speaking as a believer…but I assure you that this repetition of my past thoughts produces an all too unpleasant impression on me.” And finally, “On the contrary, with your ardent words you’ve revived many extremely powerful recollections in me. I recognize in your words my own state of mind two years ago…[which]…even seems to me that they were still more exceptional, still more absolute….”

I met with Jonathan two weeks later in Oslo, at the Petrosams workshop sponsored by the Research Council of Norway, and then nearly six months later at Holmenkollen, at the Oslo Energy Forum. Prior to all of these meetings, but certainly after reading his books, we had several exchanges over email where my topic of Western expertise in Russia began to take shape.

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